Over time, Santoni has perfected its own hand-colouring technique of the shoe, known as “patina,” which is a distinctive feature of the brand and a sign of its uniqueness.
Master craftsmen employ original tint recipes to apply up to 15 different colours to the leather, in a process that may require many hours of labour. The first colour is applied by hand to the leather and left to be absorbed. That is followed by subsequent applications with a wool cloth, which are always performed slowly and in a vertical direction.
Later, craftsmen finish the portion between the upper and the sole with a brush.
At the end of the chromatic patina, the shoes undergo a meticulous polishing process, initially with a brush and then by hand using natural creams and waxes, applied with cashmere and silk cloths.
This slow, exacting process guarantees that every pair of shoes will have a unique, irreproducible patina.
This is the classic standard method of manufacture for high quality footwear. Although this is a working standard, a "blatte" Santoni is recognized for the care of the stitching and the careful selection of the best leathers. The lengthy process ensures comfort and produces perfection in the detailing of the finished product.
Producing a shoe with Bentivegna construction means entering the Olympus of master shoemakers. In fact, every single centimeter of leather is stretched, tacked and sewn by hand on the last, together with a single welt. The welt is also made rigorously by hand since it is bordered asymmetrically along the profile of the insole lining. This technique is rooted in the ancient art of the craft and represents a challenging test of skill that few craftsmen are able to meet. However, the result is a shoe that transcends time, from every point of view.
It represents the traditional construction used for the mountain shoes. The thick rubber sole is stitched by hand to the welt. The first stitching is to hold together the welt, the upper and the midsole. The second stitching stitches the welt to the leather midsole and to the rubber sole. The artisan’s ability consists of keeping the stitching on the rubber sole invisible.
BOLOGNA
The sense of modernity doesn’t reside in the symbolic materials all already discovered at one time, but in the link which combines and propose them again. That unicum that creates the personal, recognizable and unique style of Santoni footwear forged with the finest materials.
The softness of Buffalo leather and the strong feature of the cordovan softened and greased that keeps intact over time its great value of fine and long-lasting material. The suede and nabuk with frosted writing surfaces, the tumbled and retanned calfskin, the cowhide natural leather which constitute the ancient art of natural tannage that thanks to its high quality standards offers a finished product in full respect of the environment. Values that the mature and aware consumer of today has learned to appreciate and acknowledge as integral part of the product he is buying.
Our hides with “vintage” effect are the result of special natural tanning treatments. Hides featuring this treatment have a unique characteristic that is highly visible on the shoe when worn. With daily use, the shoe leather changes and takes on a timeworn effect, leaving the signs of workmanship clearly visible. These effects should be regarded as distinctive of the hide and of its quality. They are a sign of authenticity, and not a defect and/or a reason for complaint. Santoni selects only the best hides for all its shoes, and for our most exclusive craftwork and treatments we prefer the most genuine and unique leathers, to obtain an end product that is a “true objet d’art”.
All of the suede leathers used by Santoni are the result of a careful selection and a natural tanning process that complies with all EEC standards. All of our leathers are stained using a through-dyeing process that only takes place in drums. The hides and other materials used to manufacture our products are handled with the utmost care in order to preserve their natural features and quality over time. Clean gently, avoid excessive brushing and do not place in a washing machine. We recommend the use of a crepe rubber block without the use of liquids or harsh chemical products to clean our suede leathers.
Seven secrets for keeping your shoes looking beautiful
01 Every work of art is an expression of love, research and technique. Our shoes are authentic works of the shoemaker’s art and like any valuable item should be treated with great care. By following just a few simple rules the technical and aesthetic qualities of your shoes can be conserved over time. Below there is valuable advice for the correct upkeep of your Santoni shoes:
02 After wearing, let your shoes air out. Help your shoes keep their shape by using our shoe trees made exclusively of cedar wood. Clean your shoes without removing the shoe tree: this will assist you in cleaning them more thoroughly.
03 Treat the leather only with excellent quality leather care products. Creams with high wax content nourish the leather and slow down the ageing process. Never use water repellent products as they will damage the colour of the upper, as it has been aged by hand. Use the creams frequently and in small quantities, on just cleaned shoes.
04 The most appropriate creams are the ones that are closest to the colour of the upper, up to one tone lighter: never use a darker coloured cream. We recommend Santoni cream and polish. Your favourite Santoni store can advise you best.
05 The neutral polish should be used occasionally and for cleaning only: there is a risk of hardening the shoe leather, causing cracking. Use it on the sole and on concealed parts.
06 After carefully dusting the upper, apply the cream with a cloth and make sure to let it dry for a few minutes. You can then polish, using a brush with soft bristles (a horse hair brush is best), preferably with the shoe tree still inserted. We recommend testing the product on a concealed part of the shoe, such as the tongue.
07 For suede shoes or shoes with suede inserts, only rubber bristled brushes should be used: to remove any spots you can use fine (type 00) sandpaper, followed by the rubber bristled brush to push the nap back in the right direction. Warning: suede can lose colour when it comes into contact with liquids or solvents. Avoid immersing suede products or machine washing them. Clean any stains using a damp sponge, taking care not to spread the stain.
Never use self-polishers which are quick but quite damaging, nor iron bristles (which raise the nap excessively). Also it is best to never use direct heat to dry your shoes, as the leather can dry out and crack. Store your shoes out of direct sunlight. All leather parts of the shoe (soles and welts) should also be treated with creams, to ensure their greater durability. Use the original dust bags to transport the shoes when travelling. Avoid transporting polish during summer: the natural waxes become more fluid due to the heat and they may leak. A brush and a cotton cloth should suffice.
As these are products which have been aged by hand, there may be a slight difference in the colour tones between one shoe and the other; this is due to the fact that the leather does not always absorb the various steps of the ageing finish applied to the shoe in the same manner.